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Meghalaya: 7 days across Shillong, Cherrapunji, and Dawki (Road Trip)

Meghalaya: 7 days across Shillong, Cherrapunji, and Dawki (Road Trip)

“Meghalaya” the name translates to "Abode of Clouds," and this alpine region absolutely lives up to its moniker.

For any soul that derives invigoration in the beauty of Mother Nature and her boundless creations residing in a world away from the cacophony of our frantic city lives, Meghalaya is a door that opens up a wonderland retreat with emerald green lakes, crystal clear rivers, undulating plateaus, roaring waterfalls and elevated mountains that often seem to disappear behind the veil of the passing clouds. 

Meghalaya, one of the seven northeast Indian states known as the seven sisters, lies tucked away in the highlands of the eastern sub-Himalayas, landlocked between Assam and Bangladesh. Its name translates to "Abode of Clouds," and this alpine region lives up to its moniker. It is Asia's richest botanical ecosystem, comprising a diverse array of flora and fauna. The state also boasts to be the rainiest and the cleanest places in the world. 

This scenic Himalayan plateau has been preserved and nurtured by its inhabitants. Meghalaya is predominantly home to the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes. The Garos live in western Meghalaya, while the Khasis inhabit central Meghalaya and the Jaintias dwell in eastern Meghalaya. They worship this land and toil hard to conserve its beauty and essence. Consequently, you’ll come across many pious grooves here and forests preserved for religious rituals. 

The region reflects a beautiful cultural amalgamation of these three tribes.

What to Expect

  • BEST TIME TO VISIT

  • DURATION OF STAY

  • HOW TO GET THERE?

  • MEGHALAYA: FIVE - DAY ITINERARY

    • Day 1 - Lunch @Jiva Veg, Shillong (the Scotland of East), Umiam lake, East Khasi hills, Stay @Ri Saw Kun Homestay, dinner @Kitchen Xpress

    • Day 2 - Elephant Falls, The Garden of Caves, Nohkalikai Falls, Sohra, also known as Cherapunji, Stay @La Kuper Inn

    • Day 3 - Nongriat trek, Nogriate village, Rainbow falls, dinner @Orange Roots

    • Day 4 - David Scott’s Trail, Umngot river

    • Day 5 - Longest-Living Root Bridge, Mawlynnong (Asia’s Cleanest Village), Church of the Epiphany, Krangsuri Waterfalls, Laitlum Canyon, Ward’s Lake,

  • BEST PLACES TO EAT AT IN MEGHALAYA

A picturesque view of the Dawki River in Meghalaya, India. Crystal clear turquoise water flows peacefully amidst lush green surroundings. The tranquil atmosphere of the river is enhanced by the reflection of the surrounding mountains and foliage.

Dawki River in Meghalaya, India.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Meghalaya is a state endowed with the heaviest rainfall; therefore the region offers excellent weather all year. However, you should decide your time of visit based on what you want to enjoy here.

For example, if the abundant waterfalls and deep foliage teeming with wildlife have piqued your attention, the monsoon season (September - October) or the end of the monsoon season may be perfect. The culmination of the monsoon season occurs in October, and the state is studded with cherry blossom trees at this time of year.

 However, the rain here may get intense, so I'd recommend visiting between October and March/April.

The summers here are lovely as well. 

DURATION OF STAY

With a plethora of places to see and a bounty of sunrises and sunsets to relish, Meghalaya asks for at least 7 days. Although, to explore all the thrilling sites and activities you can spend up to 12 days here. 

HOW TO GET THERE?

The most cost-effective and convenient route to Meghalaya is via Guwahati, Assam. The nearest airport to Shilling is The Umroi Airport or Shillong Airport, but the flights here are infrequent and thus expensive. Guwahati has an international airport and is well-linked by road, rail, and regular flights from all around India. 

From Guwahati, you can find a private cab, a shared cab, or one of thegovernment buses to Shillong, which is around 120 km or three hoursaway. Even the journey from Guwahati to Shillong will be exciting, as you will traverse through gorgeous country lanes and villages where you canencounter locals going about their everyday living.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION
  • Due to the language barrier, it might be difficult to communicate with natives in rural areas; nonetheless, you will come across numerous English/Hindi-speaking fellows who can help you. 

  • Vegetarians may struggle to find enough meal choices at times.

  • By 5 a.m., the sun is shining brightly, and at 5 p.m., it is pitch black here. As a result, you must schedule your day trips carefully. To make the most of your day, you should leave by 8 a.m.

  • Because roads in Shillong city are narrow, traffic gets intense by 9 p.m. So should leave early if you don't want to miss anything.

  • Root bridges are intriguing and highly distinctive to this part of India; yet, because every other place has root bridges, you may get bored, so be sure to see the two best ones - Nongriat Root Bridges and Longest Living Root Bridge. 

  •  For all the Chowmein lovers, in Meghalaya, if you want noodles order 'Chow' as Chowmein is different here. It is noodles with gravy and worth trying! But if you want good noodles, 'Chow' is the right way to go about it.

(Image source - Square space)

MEGHALAYA : 7 DAY ITINERARY

“Meghalaya” the name translates to "Abode of Clouds," and this alpine region absolutely lives up to its moniker.

DAY 1

Special mention to Thrillophillia as our Meghalaya road trip was fully managed by them. We were assisted by the Thrillophillia team in planning the trip based on what we sought from this trip end-to-end.

We landed at Guwahati Airport, Assam from our respective destinations. Once we reached Guwahati by air, a car awaited us and from there we journeyed to the realm of clouds! Indulging in the Meghalayan countryside.

We hit the road for a few hours from the airport. Midway we had really good lunch at Jiva Veg ( Meghalaya has limited vegetarian restaurant options. Having Thrillophillia helped us get right options based on our limited knowledge of this absolutely new place.)

Our first place of on the list for our Meghalayan odyssey was Shillong, the capital city of Meghalaya, fondly known as the “Scotland of the East”. However, it is unlike any quintessential capital. Though urbanized, Shillong still possesses the power to enchant us with its old-world charm. The city is famous for local Khasi food, lively bazaars, and its renowned love for music. (Shillong is known as the rock capital of India!) 

In the evening, before we reached Shillong, we decided to stop at Umiam lake. This mesmerizing man-made reservoir lies 15 km from Shillong and is bounded by verdant East Khasi hills, rendering it one of the greatest panoramic sites in the nation for nature enthusiasts. Through this serene lake, we acquainted ourselves with the soothing tranquility of Meghalaya. 

We drove directly to Shillong from the lake and settled into our accommodation at the Ri Saw Kun Homestay. We drove to a restaurant named Kitchen Xpress for dinner once we had freshened up. The restaurant served delectable Khasi food and brought us a flavor of Meghalaya's vivacious tribal people. 

DAY 2

We checked out of our homestay room at 8 a.m. the next day. The renowned Elephant Falls was the first destination of the day. These falls, located 12 km from Shillong, were entitled 'Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew' by the local Khasi people, which means 'The Three Step Waterfalls,' since they consist of three enthralling falls in succession. 

The British later renamed them, Elephant Falls, because a stone near the lakes' base resembled an elephant. The elephant-shaped stone got demolished in an earthquake, but the name persisted. Enclosed by greenery, the sight of milky white water cascading down the dark stone appeared like a magnificent painting brought to life by the thunderous roar of the flow. 

We spent the afternoon exploring The Garden of Caves. This sanctuary of caverns and waterfalls is one of Meghalaya's lesser-explored gems. The Garden of Caves, also known as Ka Bri Ki Synrang by the natives, is located 10 km away from the Laitryngew area, near the Laitmawsiang settlement of Sohra. 

This mystical site used to be a haven for Khasi people during the Anglo-Khasi conflict. The sun rays illuminate the subterranean chambers of the old caverns. The overall scene was captivating and intriguing. 

The legendary Nohkalikai Falls, India's most spectacular and tallest plunge cascade, was the next destination. A trail led to the sight of water pouring down red-rock cliffs from a height of 1115 feet into a stunning blue lake surrounded by lush rainforest. The waterfall, which is famous for being the world's fourth-tallest plunge waterfall, is a popular tourist destination in the North-East. 

In the night we traveled to Sohra, also known as Cherapunji, once the rainiest place on earth, and checked into our hotel La Kupar Inn. 

DAY 3

On the third day, we were to see the historic double-decker root bridge on the Nongriat trek. However, the excursion rewarded us with plenty more. We began early in the morning because we had a 3500 step and 3 km hike ahead of us. 

After arriving in Tyrna village, the starting point on top of the mountain, we began trekking up and down the stone-hewn route. We felt that we were journeying so deep into the forest that we had reached another realm, a tranquil and gorgeous region where you can sense the purity in the air and taste the sweet moist smell of the rainforest. 

On the way, you'd encounter numerous locals carrying local products in heavy sacks tied on their backs. You may also witness young kids going to school, and the land of this hardworking humble people living intimately with nature will impress you. We saw several religious grooves, natural ponds, rivulets, and a wealth of diverse animals while traversing the mysterious valley.

We soon arrived at the quint Nogriate village, and close by was the double-decker root bridge. These root bridges are man-made wonders. These roots, created by the Khasi tribe, sprout from old rubber trees found exclusively in the northeast region. 

These roots are cultivated by the Khasis to grow in the shape of bridges on the banks of a river. The Khasis then bred the roots and built these sturdy bridges that last for decades, if not centuries. 

We had a great time here, taking in the natural splendor. It was crazy tiring. One of the toughest treks of my life till now but when we reached the Rainbow falls, everything made sense. The divine beauty of this place was worth the long, exhausting, and inclined trek.I usually feel treks are very philosophical in nature than physical. It’s all about the power of your will. The day was exhausting, but it was well worth it. 

Image by @ _foodie.doodler_

We traveled back to the city from the embrace of nature, only to return the next day. We had a delicious dinner at Orange Roots ( this restaurant was our lifesaver as everything in Cherrpunjee closes by 8 pm. The owner of this place was kind enough to offer us some food after everything shut down) in Cherapunjee before falling asleep like sleepy babies at the hotel. 

DAY 4

After resting properly, we spent our fourth day on another adventurous trek, the David Scott’s Trail. Yep, we were so determined that we did two treks on two consecutive days. Though we recommend you should always have one breather day. One of the oldest trails of north-eastern India, it is loved by nature enthusiasts and trekkers all around the globe for its immense beauty and rich diversity of flora and fauna. 

It is part of a 100-km trade route built during the British rule of India. This 16-kilometer journey takes you through the Eastern Khasi Hills. At an elevation of 4,892 feet, the David Scott trek traverses through steep valleys with the Umngot River flowing alongside. 

The route connects two well-known Khasi settlements, Mawphlang and Lad Mawphlang. It is named after David Scott, a British administrator who served in north-eastern India in the early 1800s.

The entire hike boasts breathtaking views of misty mountains, captivating archaic stone bridges, pious grooves, green winding meadows, and the Umngot river streaming through the valley. You'll feel like you're wandering in the clouds if you go right after the monsoon.

The present David Scott Trail runs over 16 km from Mawphlang to Lad Mawphlang. There were a few Khasi communities along the road, but the deep jungle was essentially devoid of civilization, which enhanced the splendor of the trek. 

Exhausted and happy we went back to our hotel and called it a day. 

DAY 5

On the fifth day, we first checked out of our hotel, La Kupar Inn. The first location of the day was the second living root bridge we were about to visit. This longest-living root bridge around the village Mawlynnong was a single-decker bridge, and what a marvelous one! 

Sourced from @Tripadvisor.com

Finally, we arrived in Mawlynnong, recognized as Asia's cleanest village. Because of its blooming orchards and unrivaled beauty, this secluded tiny town is also known as God's Own Garden.  

We spotted bamboo dustbins in every nook and cranny. The region was abundant with greenery and was meticulously maintained by the local Khasi community. 

There were numerous tree houses. We simply walked through the village, frequently being greeted by friendly locals. SkyView is a vantage point in the town. This bamboo gazing tower stands 85 feet tall. The breathtaking vistas will take your breath away once you reach the summit. You'll also be able to observe the scenery of Bangladesh because the town is located on the Indo-Bangladesh border.

It also features a century-old historic church known as the Church of the Epiphany. We left town and drove to Dawki for another day of sightseeing. 

The following day, we visited another Meghalayan gem. We'd heard a lot about Dwaki's enthralling grandeur, but when we saw it for ourselves, we realized what all the hype was about. The sunrays reflected off the crystal blue water against the landscape of Meghalaya's undulating rocky mountains. This territory is near the border, and the Umngot River separates the Jaintia and Khasi Hills. 

We had a fantastic time exploring activities like boating, kayaking, and zip-lining. The water is so clear that you feel as if you're floating above it. We could see the pebbles lying on the surface. 

In the afternoon. We headed towards Betelnut restaurant for lunch. Having treated ourselves to a hearty meal, we set off to Krangsuri waterfalls. 

Krangsuri waterfalls, nestled far from the crowd and along a pleasant trail, create a deep blue pool and a sight to behold! You can swim in the pool (with life jackets) and participate in other sports such as boating. The sound of the cascading water and the fauna in the surrounding area was magical. 

Soon after, the sun started to set (remember, night arrives early here!) and we began our journey back to Shillong. On the way, we stopped for a full meal at Dominos and then checked back into Ri Saw Kun homestay. 

DAY 6

On the last day of our trip, we chose to explore the admired spots surrounding Shillong that we hadn't had the chance to see previously. We began with the Laitlum Canyon.

Laitlum Canyon, 45 km from Shillong, is a prime spot for observing Meghalaya as the land of clouds. Laitlum translates to "end of the hills," and this breathtakingly magnificent hilltop appears to live up to its name. 

This challenging excursion showcases the state's aesthetic panorama, the cloud-covered chills, and the hues that adorn the complete spectrum in vivid colors. 

Sourced from https://www.trawell.in/

Later, we drove back to the city and spent the rest of our day relaxing and unwinding. We visited Ward’s Lake, also known as Pollock’s Lake. 

This artificial waterbody is named after the then Chief Commissioner of Assam, Sir William Ward, who started the plan for the establishment of this lake. The surrounding gardens and a wooden bridge that lies in the middle of the lake make this place often visited by the locals as well. 

In the evening, we hopped on several of Shillong's well-known cafés, such as Cafe Shillong and Dylan's Cafe. These places showed us an entirely different facet of this state and its folks. Their passion and appreciation for music were profound. 

Sourced from @drupadgupta on Dylan’s cafe instagram page.

This was the perfect way to end our journey to this land of clouds, waterfalls, nature, beautiful people, and their devotion to their culture and heritage. Meghalaya truly is a hidden jewel of India and a testament to man's ability to live in harmony with Mother Nature. 

Best places to eat in Meghalaya

Meghalaya, popularly referred to as the "Abode of Clouds," is steadily gaining prominence as a traveler's dream destination. The state has drawn visitors from all over the globe because of its unending waves of rich mountains, thundering waterfalls, and other natural wonders. However, in addition to exploring the stunning landscapes, you should indulge in its delicacies to get a true sense of the region. 

The state offers a variety of scrumptious regional cuisines as well as cafés and restaurants serving dishes from all over India. The Shillong market, in particular, provides a myriad of dining options. Th food palette here is very different from other Indian states inspired for the local cuisine of Khasi mountains.

Numerous travel destinations offer fantastic sea-food and meat dishes, but because we believe in sustainability, I have only included Vegan and/or Vegetarian options. As a vegetarian, I understand how difficult it can be to find delicious vegetarian meals, especially in parts of the world where the cuisine is dominated by meat. So, to make things easier for you, I've added a few fantastic places serving Vegan and/or vegetarian food that I visited while traveling across Meghalaya.

P.S. Most of places shut down at 6;30 p.m. so plan your day accordingly.

Place 1: Jiv Veg Restaurent: Enroute Shillong 

Jiva Veg North Indian Thaali, Image sourced from @JivaVeg

Jiva Veg Restuarant is sited on GS Rd, Nongpoh in Meghalaya, on the route of Guwahati to Shillong. From North to South India, this vegetarian restaurant serves delectable pure vegetarian dishes. 

The food here was excellent and satisfying. Because there may not bemany vegetarian options on the route from Guwahati to Shillong,organize your day so that you may halt here and have a hearty mealbefore continuing your journey.

Place 2: Dylan’s Cafe, Shillong

Image sourced from Tripadvisor.com

Dylan's Cafe, a local favorite as well as a tourist attraction, should be visited for the ambiance rather than the food. The café was created as a tribute to the musical genius Bob Dylan. Meghalaya is famed for its love of music, particularly rock music, and this place is simply another manifestation of it. 

The interior is adorned with Dylan-related imagery and symbols. From his face painted on the cushions to discs embellishing the walls, the café provides tourists with a one-of-a-kind experience. 

From Manchow soup to scorching hot chicken wings and all-American pancakes, the varied menu provides comfort cuisine from around the world. Fans may munch at Bob's Burger and let Dylan's gravelly voice, which is continually pouring from the speakers, calm their soul. 

Place 3 : Cafe Shillong, Shillong

This 3-star hotel is located in Shillong's core neighborhood and is quite accessible to the main market, Bada Bazar. The place is designed to resemble a 70-year-old Shillong bungalow and is excellent for leisure travelers who want to indulge in the sights and sounds of Meghalaya. 

They often have a live band performing. This restaurant, which serves both local and international food, is always packed with people. 

Place 4: Kitchen Express, Shillong

Another nice place to dine when in Shillong is Kitchen Express. The place serves as a grill bar. The place has a relaxing fun vibe and the staff is quite lively as well. 

This place is a nice hangout spot and they serve a nice variety of mocktails and cocktails along with plenty of options of food items. 

Place 5: Orange Roots, Cherapunjee

Orange Roots, the first pure vegetarian restaurant in Cherrapunjee, was opened by Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort. The restaurant offers a variety of nutritious and robust south Indian dishes, as well as entire thalis besides Indian Breakfast including Dosa, Puri Subji, Chole Bhature, and snacks. 

They have also started to provide Jain dishes. The taste of the native Khasi people's warm, comforting meal was truly an experience. The Restaurant is now open daily from 08:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and on Sunday from 09:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Place 6: Betelnut Restaurants, Dawki

Image source : Betelnut Resort google maps collection.

Betelnut, based in Shnongpdeng, Dawki, is a hotel and restaurant that serves exquisite cuisines. So, when strolling around the tranquil Dawki lake, if you're feeling ravished and yearning for a place with mesmerizing scenery, Betelnut is the way to go. The restaurant boasts French windows that overlook the deep forest of Meghalaya, making the dining experience even more divine. 

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